Some information I found on Den of Angels that I found Very Useful.
my SD10 girl. I got them from The Washer House on eBay. I had actually been to 5 different hardware stores before I ordered
them and I had no luck at all. The hardware employees always had no clue what I was talking about. They must not be a
common item at all.
The 1.5 inch are good size for her hip joints, and the 3/4 inch ones were good for her knees and ankles. I kind of wished they
were just a bit bigger for the knees, but they might stick out if they were. The 1/2 inch size were too small, but I bet they might
work on a tiny, or possibly an MSD with thinner elastic. If I were you, I would only order the translucent silicone washers
because all colored types could stain your doll.
I had been wanting to suede my girl because her knees were a floppy horror. So I am happy to say that these silicone washers
have given her some improvement in posing. I think she probably still needs wiring too, though. The hardest part was
restringing her feet, because she's so old she doesn't have hooked ankles. I think if I could have done a better job stringing
them she might stand a little better. If anything, the washers seem to help keep them from flopping sideways when I stand her. I
also like that the washers were not too fat to interfere with the movement of her joints. All in all, it was fun to do. It's like my doll
has the Kips system like Yukinojo now.
Did you glue the washers in? Or string them onto the elastic?
Yukinojo's aren't glued in, so no, I didn't glue them. I just strung them on the elastic between the joints.
Interesting idea. Is it possible to make a cut in the washer and add the washer to the joint / elastic without the re-stinging?
Are the washers very very thin and flexible, or are they fairly rigid?
Thanks for sharing this idea. Very creative!
They are very thin and flexible, so I don't think they would stay on very well if you cut them and stuck them around the elastic.
However, Pelicandeb has an interesting idea about glueing them. I bet if you bent the leg back to get the joint open, you could
glue a cut washer into the joint quite easily! And the washer would never poke out of the joint occasionally like Yukinojo does.
I think that the reason the KIPS system silicone washers aren't glued in is because practically nothing sticks to silicone except
more silicone. Which is why so many modern baking utensils are made from it nowadays. The company I work for makes a
silicone adhesive to seal seams on silicone treated tents, because no other kind of adhesive sticks to it.
I have a question, say if I didn't want to suede my doll, can using KIPS work the same way as your doll being sueded? Is there
any particular difference?
Also a question with the new Volks bodies have 'locking' knee and hip joints, with the old bodies, can this process be done? Or
are the new bodies made entirely new with that function?
I'm so nooby...
The locking-knee joints in the new SD models make KIPS unnecessary. I haven't had my Volks girl for long, but she's the
easiest to stand up, and I haven't sueded her at all.
The big problem areas, I find, are the knee and ankle joints. This isn't a problem anymore with Volks, apparently, but the KIPS
made a huge difference in my CP girl's standing ability - more than sueding, as a matter of fact. I don't think you have to do
both. With the disks, there's no risk of your sueding (either hot glue or material) peeling off, I'd think...
With a little care while you string, the disks won't be sucked into the elastic channels. This was a problem at first with my CP doll.
|Tutorial: Homemade silicone kips
Well, in this forum I have seen tutorials to improve the posing of our dolls, but I haven't seen what I use, so I did this
tutorial^ ^ (i did it in spanish and then translated into english with google translator, so sorry for the mistakes T.T)
What I use are the silicone sheets, that are sheets of silicon that can be cut in the shape you want. I usually buy them
in Pupa Paradise, but I suppose that you can buy it in other places too.
Lets get started:
• Our doll.
• The silicone sheet
• pen marker
• sheet of paper
• Hole Punch (Not the kind used on paper - a hollow punch set)
|We measure the concave part of the
joint. In this case, 1'5cm.
|We divide this measure in 2 parts
(in my case 0'75cm) and put the
measure on the compass.
|We make a circle on the paper with
this measure, and draw a smaller
concentric, where we will place the
strings. I did that with the hole punch
(the pileup that makes holes in the
|Once cut should be something like
|copy the pattern to the silicone
sheet (do not worry about the pen,
my sheet has a protective plastic
that will be removed, so the resin
will not be stained) and then we cut
Repeat the process as times as
necessary for all the articulations of
|Put the circle of silicone between
the two sides of the joint and pass
|It will be something like this. On the front is not even appreciated ^ ^
Well, and it's same for all articulacions of elbows, shoulders, knees, thighs, or even the neck ^ ^
For Arms and Legs:
|the inside of the torso
We take the part of the torso, and put next to each other
pieces of tape so that everyone starts at about the
same height, until we complete.
Mark with pencil the outline of the body in the tape.
|Carefully take off, and cut
somewhere in the circle we had
done so it looks like in the picture
|We cut the piece, and as before,
we pass the pattern to the silicone
and cut it.
|Adjust it to the inside of the torso, and probably we need to cut a little piece (that is because
obviously the silicone sheet is thicker than the tape). And it will be something like this ^ ^
Fit the torso in place and ready ^ ^
And that's all^^